Wed, 5 June 2002
Log #11 Kingdom of Tonga -- Part One
We had a good trip from New Zealand to Tonga (May 15-29), although a bit longer than the trip down the end of the year as we were going into the wind this time. It took us nine days from the Bay of Islands to North Minerva Reef as compared with only eight days for the whole trip down last november. But that is the difference between going into the wind (going to weather) and having the wind behind you and must be the origin of the saying "gentlemen never go to weather." Then two days and nine hours from North Minerva to Tonga for the second part of the passage. We were fortunate to arrive at Tongatapu just before dark with enough light to make it through the pass in the reef so we could anchor for a peaceful nights sleep before heading into Nuku'alofa to check in the next morning.
North Minerva Reef was a great stop on the way north and is pretty amazing as it is a circular reef with one opening through which small boats can get in and out. The reef is only exposed at low tide but provides enough protection for a good anchorage and all in the middle of the ocean. We arrived at mid-day, made pizza for lunch and then Suzette got to open birthday presents since we had arrived on her actual birthday which made the stop even more special. After drinks with friends that evening we quickly fell into a deep sleep and slept the sleep of the dead for 12 hours. Nice to catch up on sleep and not have to get up for watches in the middle of the night!!! It certainly was different to hear the crash of the surf while anchored in the middle of the ocean with no real land around.
The next day we had more energy and set off snorkleing and lobster hunting. Great reef fish and some nice coral. It was interesting being inside the reef and having the outgoing tide racing over the lip of the coral into the lagoon, with the water moving so swiftly that it sounded like a waterfall. There was a trough about five feet deep that ran along the inner edge of the reef with caves underneath where we searched for lobsters. We found several but could not convince any of the lobsters to come back to the boat for dinner. Darn, and we had all this butter ready and waiting!! Paul ended up with a couple of antennea and some small legs that he did bring back to cook up for snack but it was barely a couple of bites.
A couple of years ago someone had the idea to build a fishing resort on Minerva Reef and started work on foundations. The project has since been abandonded and the remains of the foundations have trapped sand and formed a nice bit of beach that is even useable at high tide. Sunday all five of the boats in the anchorage gathered at the "beach" for games, cocktails and nibbles. It was great fun, nice to be on land, even if not a very large piece of it, a great time was had by all, and the evening ended with an incredible sunset and moon rise to close the party. It was a great setting and a wonderful unique experience.
When Captain Cook visited Tonga in the 1770's, he and his men received such friendly and welcoming treatment that he named the islands "The Friendly Islands" although many people bleieve that the original intent of the Tongans was to eat all of the Europeans after the feast and that they werer only saved due to Cook's profuse thanks at the end of the meal. But it is true that the Tongans very friendly and and welcoming people.
The Kingdom of Tonga is the oldest and last remaining Polynesian monarchy and the only Pacific nation never to brought under foreign rule. Tonga is made up of four main island groups sprinkled over about 270,030 square miles but with a total land area of only 267 square miles. In all Tonga comprises 170 islands but only 42 of them are inhabited. Our first port of call in Tonga on this trip was at Tongatapu with the captial city of Nuku'alofa, which is the most southern of the four Tongan island groups. From here we will go about 60 miles north to the Ha'apai Group, a far-flung archipelago of low coral islands and soaring volcanoes in the center of Tonga. Then it will be on to the Vava'u Group another 60 miles north and the northern most of the central Tongan islands, with its immense landlocked harbor and numerous islands with protected anchorages. Vava'u is the main cruising area in Tonga and home to the charter sailing fleet with both Moorings and Sunsail charter bases here and has over 30 anchorages. The only island group in Tonga that we are not visiting is the volcanic Niuas which are located 185 miles north of the Vava'u Group. The international dateline takes an eastward jog from the 180th parallel just north of Tonga and so Tonga is the first country to see the rising sun each morning. It's good to be King. If you're the King you can move the dateline if you want!
After spending almost two months here last year it is fun to be back. Nuku'alofa is the big city in Tonga and most Tongans live here on Tongatapu. When on the other islands in this country, if you are coming to Tongatapu you just say that you are going to Tonga. This is where the King lives and most commerce takes place. When we arrived on May 30 we could see a huge, colorful parade in progress on shore with lots of school bands for the opening of Parliament. Last November when we were here we discovered a wonderful cafe in town called "Friends Cafe" which is a wonderful oasis of "first world" atmosphere and could easily be on any street in San Francisco or Seattle. Last year it seemed a real luxury to have breakfast or lunch here after not having access to this type of place for so long. And besides they have Suzette's favorite -- eggs benedict -- for only about US$3.50.
Although the Tongans have their own language, English is widely spoken and many of the signs are in English which certainly makes things easier for us. The Tongan people are very friendly and always eager to please, although as they have a very hard time telling you "No" or that they do not know the answer to a question that has been asked. This makes interpreting the answers to questions challenging at times as you are never really sure what the true answer actually is. We always try to phrase our questions so that the answer is not just a yes or no answer but even that does not always help as many Tongans come across as somewhat shy in their dealings with foreigners.
Religion plays a huge role in Tonga and influences day-to-day life in many ways. The Tongan Constitution was drafted by Methodist missionary Shirley Baker and declares the Sabbath day forever scared: it is unlawful to work, hold sporting events or trade on Sundays. The Sabbath is so strong that even the Seventh-Day Adventistis here observe Sundays as the Lord's Day and not Saturday as elsewhere. A third of all Tongans and most of the noble class are members of the mainstream Free Wesleyan Church.
Due to the strong religious influence, dress is modest with women usually wearing clothing that covers their shoulders and knees at all times and women generally wear long dresses. We did see some more modern dress making appearances in cities with more western contact such as Nuku'alofa and Neifau in the Vava'u Group. Public displays of affection are also frowned upon so no hand holding or kissing in public. We have had to drop our normal practice of a quick kiss before going our separate ways when on land while here. Businesses are closed on Sundays and restaurants can only be open if they are connected with a hotel or other establishment with lodging. You are not even supposed to go snorkeling or do "noisy boat projects" on a Sunday. As in the Cook Islands, Friday night is the big night to go out as bars close at midnight on Saturday nights and this is strictly enforced. Church bells begin ringing at 4:30 in the morning and continue through out the day. Many Tongans will spend all day at church attending services, choir practice and other activities. This past Sunday we spent working on quiet boat projects below decks and listening to religious music on one of the local radio stations. It was different to hear very modern songs, even some rap type music, but with references to Jesus Our Savior and King. Walking through town on a Sunday, most streets are fairly deserted.
There are Mormon churches cropping up everywhere, each with a basketball court although the Tongans don't generally play basketball and volleyball courts would be more appropriate. Many Tongans become "Mormons" as the church offers the least expensive education, but many go back to their previous religions after the children are out of school although there are many Mormons here. Connection with the Mormon church also offers the opportunity for students to go to Mormon universities in Utah or Hawaii since Tongans do not have other formal connections for continuing education anywhere else and not much is offered here in terms of higher education. The Mormons are actually aiming to make Tonga the first country on earth with a Mormon majority and the Mormon Church sends more aid money to Tonga than the US government.
Last October and November it was always interesting hearing the marine radio broadcasts giving weather and "Dangers to Navigation." This information included navigation lights being out in the main harbor in the Northern Group (they didn't recommend you going in at night), the light had been out since June and they would let you know when it was back up and running. You were also warned to be careful in the vicinity of the "New Islands" that were forming and to use "care" in those areas as that water was still "disturbed." The new islands were forming northwest of the Vava'u Group and while we did not get a chance to go and exlpore that area we were able to get some pieces of "new rock" from some people who did ventrue out that way. This year we may be in that area if we decide to head up to Wallis.
Well that is about all for now. We thought we would get you started with this bit on Tonga before heading off to the Ha'apai and Vava'u Groups tomorrow. Hope all is well with everyone and that you are enjoying a good summer or winter, depending on your hemisphere.
Cheers for now -- Suzette and Paul